So it’s been about a month at site and now I’m back in Tana again to help train the new volunteers. It was actually pretty uneventful the past month at site. I helped out at a few of the clinics in my commune, visited with friends at site, spent a nice weekend up in Vohemar, a larger town north of me on the coast. It has a really nice beach…wish I would have remembered to take my camera. I also helped the environment volunteer 25km south of me start to paint a world map on one of the buildings at the CEG (junior high school). We had some kids in her town help out, and it was a lot of fun, though I don’t think it’s finished yet. When I left for Tana, it was just a giant blue rectangle, but I’m sure it will be beautiful when it’s done, and I hope the kids are able to learn some geography from seeing it everyday when they go to school.
So many people here have no idea where different countries are located. They often think that the United States is in Europe and they have no idea what countries are in Africa, even though Madagascar is technically considered part of Africa. I have a couple maps in my house, and I’m constantly showing people who stop by where America, Africa, France and Madagascar are, so they have some concept of where I am from and where they are from in the world. I guess it’s hard though, when so many of the people here haven’t even finished middle school. It’s especially hard for the girls, who often get pregnant at age 15 and then drop out of school because they have to take care of their baby.
On another note, the fact that I’ve been traveling around a lot made me realize I’ve never talked about the transportation system here in Madagascar. I’m luck enough to be a “fly site,” which means that the road from my site to the capital is so bad that it can take up to three days by car and is often impassible during the rainy season. So every time I have to go to the capital for a training or meeting, I get flown down and spared the unpleasant long journey crammed in a taxi brousse (French for bush taxi, i.e. public bus system in Madagascar). I still have to take a 1.5-2hr ride in a taxi brousse from my site to Sambava to catch the plane, though, and that in itself is enough for me.
This time around I was crammed in an 18 passenger van with 30 other Malagasies. Granted, a few of them were kids, and Malagasy people are generally pretty small, but still, it was pretty ridiculous. The smell of fried food, body odor and bad breath permeating throughout the vehicle does not help with the discomfort. One time there was a live chicken tied up under my seat, clucking away and flapping its wings. There are often people sitting facing backwards, legs entangled with the people directly in front of them, some sit on other’s laps, sometimes someone has to share a seat with the driver, who has to reach awkwardly between their legs every time he needs to switch gears, and some of the seats get really hot, because they’re right over the engine or something. Many of the drivers hotwire the car every time they start it because they don’t have the actual ignition key. When they have to fill up the engine, it’s often from an old glass soda bottle filled with petrol from a shack along the side of the road. The windshields often have cracks in the glass. Some of the taxi brousses have tons of stuff piled on top…anything from 15 giant sacks of bananas or cassava to bicycles to suitcases. A lot of times, the worker who collects everyone’s fair and loads luggage on top of the car has to hang out the side with the door open since the brousse is so full. I’m always terrified they’re going to tumble to their death if the taxi happens to make a sharp turn or get in an accident when they’re hanging out the side like that.
From a public health perspective, I sometimes wonder if there’s something we should be doing about the taxi brousse situation, considering many deaths in developing coutries are due to traffic accidents as the infrastructure is so bad and the population concentration so great. Unfortunately I suppose the transportation issue goes along with law enforcement. There really should be a limit on the number of people allowed in certain types of vehicles, and it should be enforced. There are checkpoints along the national highways, and the gendarmes do often stop the taxis to check that the driver’s registration and license is up to date and to reprimand the ones who stuff too many people in the car, but I think there’s often some under-the-table transactions (i.e. drivers forking over a few Ariary to the gendarmes so they can continue on their way). It’s also hard when gas prices are so high, and the drivers are just trying to make a living. You can’t blame them for wanting to get as many passengers as possible to make their trips worthwhile.
Nevertheless, I always seem to make it safely to my destination, even though it may sometimes be several hours later than I had intended to arrive. I’m in Tana again now, and man it is so cold!! I want to go back to my site already and it’s only been a day. I’m such a whimp, I don’t know how I’ll survive the weather when I go back to the states. I’m so glad my site is up north near the coast where it’s warm all year around. Right now it is our winter, and it does cool down (low 60s) at night and in the early morning to be fair, but the highlands is so much chillier than the coast. I can still wear tank-tops and sandals at site, but I’m bundled up in a sweatshirt and thick socks here. Anyway, looking forward to getting back to site soon and continuing on my projects. I’ll be headed up toward Diego in a few weeks to help out an environment volunteer posted up there with some nutrition projects. That’s it for now!
Monday, August 30, 2010
Friday, August 20, 2010
6 Aug 2010
Wow, the past month has been really busy! The beginning of July, I was still at site doing the usual…teaching about health in the clinic in town and the rural clinic 10k south of me, working with local community organizations on projects like building public wells and latrines. I got to hike to a rural village to see where a women’s group was planning to build a well since there’s no access to clean water out there and many of the kids suffer from schistosomiasis and diarrheal diseases. I am planning to help the women’s group get money to build two public wells in that village.
I also had an unexpected visit from an American traveling through Madagascar on a bike! He had actually come across some of my fellow Peace Corps volunteers who live closer to Antananarivo, and had biked northwest up to the coast of Madagascar. Then he took a plane up to Sambava and passed by my site. He was asking about the road up north and looking to visit Diego. It was really cool to have a random English speaker stop by my house on a quiet Saturday and to hear that he had seen some of my friends in other parts of Madagascar. He had all of his belongings on a small cart-thing that was attached to the back of his bike (probably a technical term for this, but I’m not a savvy biker, so I don’t know).
The second week of July I headed back down to Tana. There I had a couple meetings and business things to take care of, and then I went to Ambatondrazaka/Lake Alaotra with a bunch of other volunteers to participate in a bike tour around the lake and do some festivals to raise awareness about AIDS. We stopped in 9 towns around the lake (7 of which were Peace Corps volunteer’s sites) and taught about methods of prevention against AIDS and about what Peace Corps does here in Madagascar. We also sang songs, danced, showed videos on a projector complements of the NGO Population Services International and generally had a good time. I had so much fun partying it up, seeing another part of Madagascar and hanging out with all my fellow volunteers again. I also got to see Lake Lemurs. How cool!
Now I am back at site again. At first it was a little difficult to go back, because I knew I would miss all my fellow American volunteers dearly, but I was excited to see some of my Malagasy friends back at site and to speak my dialect of Malagasy again. The official dialect spoken near the capital is difficult! It took a few days but I got back into the swing of things. I’ve jumped back on my own bike back at site and have been visiting all my friends and colleagues and working at the clinics again. I love the weather so much better up here. It’s not quite so cold as down in Tana (it is winter here in Madagascar after all). After doing all the AIDS festivals in Lake Alaotra, I’m inspired to do one here up north for World AIDS day on December 1st.
Sometimes I feel kind of conflicted when talking about AIDS though, because we often run out of HIV tests here in Madagascar and testing is such an integral part of AIDS prevention. It’s also so hard to get people to use condoms, since most of the men here are totally opposed to them and some even consider STDs to be a sign of manliness (I guess since that means they have slept with a lot of women). Most women are convinced that their husbands or boyfriends would never use a condom if they asked, yet so many people here have STDs. I saw a newborn baby at the clinic last week with swollen/infected eyes, and I wouldn’t be surprised if it was because the mother had syphilis. When we did have syphilis tests and were able to test pregnant women, at least one would test positive every time we tested each week at the clinic. Again, I get so frustrated sometimes when the majority of problems I see are systematic ones that I can’t change from my position as a volunteer in another country (ex: availability of syphilis and HIV tests, accessibility of clinics, availability/price of medications). Still pluggin’ away, though, and looking forward to seeing some new health and education volunteers up here at the end of September. I hope they will be good people to work with.
I also had an unexpected visit from an American traveling through Madagascar on a bike! He had actually come across some of my fellow Peace Corps volunteers who live closer to Antananarivo, and had biked northwest up to the coast of Madagascar. Then he took a plane up to Sambava and passed by my site. He was asking about the road up north and looking to visit Diego. It was really cool to have a random English speaker stop by my house on a quiet Saturday and to hear that he had seen some of my friends in other parts of Madagascar. He had all of his belongings on a small cart-thing that was attached to the back of his bike (probably a technical term for this, but I’m not a savvy biker, so I don’t know).
The second week of July I headed back down to Tana. There I had a couple meetings and business things to take care of, and then I went to Ambatondrazaka/Lake Alaotra with a bunch of other volunteers to participate in a bike tour around the lake and do some festivals to raise awareness about AIDS. We stopped in 9 towns around the lake (7 of which were Peace Corps volunteer’s sites) and taught about methods of prevention against AIDS and about what Peace Corps does here in Madagascar. We also sang songs, danced, showed videos on a projector complements of the NGO Population Services International and generally had a good time. I had so much fun partying it up, seeing another part of Madagascar and hanging out with all my fellow volunteers again. I also got to see Lake Lemurs. How cool!
Now I am back at site again. At first it was a little difficult to go back, because I knew I would miss all my fellow American volunteers dearly, but I was excited to see some of my Malagasy friends back at site and to speak my dialect of Malagasy again. The official dialect spoken near the capital is difficult! It took a few days but I got back into the swing of things. I’ve jumped back on my own bike back at site and have been visiting all my friends and colleagues and working at the clinics again. I love the weather so much better up here. It’s not quite so cold as down in Tana (it is winter here in Madagascar after all). After doing all the AIDS festivals in Lake Alaotra, I’m inspired to do one here up north for World AIDS day on December 1st.
Sometimes I feel kind of conflicted when talking about AIDS though, because we often run out of HIV tests here in Madagascar and testing is such an integral part of AIDS prevention. It’s also so hard to get people to use condoms, since most of the men here are totally opposed to them and some even consider STDs to be a sign of manliness (I guess since that means they have slept with a lot of women). Most women are convinced that their husbands or boyfriends would never use a condom if they asked, yet so many people here have STDs. I saw a newborn baby at the clinic last week with swollen/infected eyes, and I wouldn’t be surprised if it was because the mother had syphilis. When we did have syphilis tests and were able to test pregnant women, at least one would test positive every time we tested each week at the clinic. Again, I get so frustrated sometimes when the majority of problems I see are systematic ones that I can’t change from my position as a volunteer in another country (ex: availability of syphilis and HIV tests, accessibility of clinics, availability/price of medications). Still pluggin’ away, though, and looking forward to seeing some new health and education volunteers up here at the end of September. I hope they will be good people to work with.
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
30 June 2010
I’ve been back at site for a month now, and things have been going really well so far. The new environment volunteer who’s 25km south of me seems like she’ll be great to work with, and I’ve met up with her a couple times since I’ve been back. We’re thinking of doing some bio-intensive gardens with the nutrition organization here to encourage people to use kitchen gardens to improve their food security. We’re also planning on getting funding for some public wells and latrines in rural areas, building some improved cookstoves and possibly painting a large map of the world in one of the primary schools as part of Peace Corp’s World Map Project.
Lately I’ve been biking or hiking out to the more rural areas to carry out health education activities. I really enjoy getting the exercise everyday and meeting new people. So far I’ve taught at four different primary schools and have been carrying out a training program for health educators at another primary school. I’ve also brought some materials to construct hand-washing stations at a few of the schools I have taught at. Sometimes it’s a little overwhelming, because there can be as many as 80-100 kids in a class, but it’s still really fun. The kids really enjoy the pictures I draw on my health posters, and the songs about healthy foods and hand-washing are a big hit. Malagasy love to sing, no matter how tone deaf some of them might be (some are really talented singers, though). I also often work with a doctor posted at a much smaller rural clinic 9km south of me. I go there at least once a week and help out with family planning or vaccines. I really enjoy talking to the people who visit the clinic about their daily struggles and about different options they have to improve the health of their families. It’s so beautiful out in the countryside of Madagascar, so even just traveling out to the different villages is an amazing experience in itself. I just need to remember to bring my camera more often! My garden is starting to come along too. Ive got tomato plants, onions, eggplant, cilantro, green beans, cucumbers, carrots and radishes already growing. The tomato plants already have little tomatoes on them. Hopefully we'll be able to use the veggies for cooking demos with the nutrition organiation.
I’ve also been doing some informal English lessons on the side. I’m more about the health education than English, but there are so many people here that want to learn and it is a nice way to make friends. I also end up picking up a little more Malagasy and French too, and I often get “voandalanas,” or, gifts for the road (cucumbers, bananas, coconuts, etc.).
June 26th was Madagascar’s Independence Day, which is a huge celebration here. The past weekend was really fun. A couple of friends had me over for meals, I participated in a bike race, watched a parade through town, watched a soccer match, heard a speech given by the village president and went to a dance party on Saturday night. Needless to say I was completely exhausted on Sunday, but it was a really fun experience. The Malagasy really know how to party!
Quite a few people have TVs here, and there’s electricity in town from 2pm-12am everyday, so I’ve even been able to catch some of the World Cup action. People here really enjoy watching Brazil (like everyone else). When I’m not able to make it over to a neighbor’s house to catch the games, I listen on my radio. The local Malagasy station in town runs commentaries on the matches every evening. It’s hard to understand a lot of it, since they speak so fast (like commentators in the U.S.) and it’s not in the same dialect, but once in a while I can figure out what’s going on, and it’s a good way for me to work on my language.
My Malagasy has been coming a long much better now that I’ve been back at site. I find that when I’m listening in on other’s conversations I can understand a lot more than I could before. I’m able to mix the dialects a little better now. Even though I was trained in the northern dialect, Sakalava, the people in this region speak a mix of several different dialects. In addition to Sakalava, there’s also Betsimasaraka, Tsimihety and Antandroy. Many people take words and expressions from multiple dialects, and when I travel from village to village (even if it’s only a few km away) there are clusters of groups, so I’ll find people speaking more Betsimasaraka than Sakalava or more Tsimihety than Betsimasaraka. I notice that some of the villages I go to, I really have a hard time understanding them because they tend to use more of one dialect than another. It’s a real challenge. Some days are really frustrating, because I feel like I’m back at day one, but then other days are encouraging because I feel that I’m really picking up on the language.
This weekend I’ll be meeting up with the other three volunteers in my region to celebrate 4th of July and watch a little World Cup. Then in mid-July I’m headed back to Tana (the capital) for a meeting and a training session since I’ll be helping train the next batch of health volunteers that come in August. I’m also going to help out with a bike tour against AIDS that some of the other health volunteers are organizing up at Lake Alaotra. I’m really excited to see everyone again and to help out with the bike tour. It should be a lot of fun. Hopefully somewhere in there I’ll be able to get the funding straightened out for the public latrine and well projects that I’m working on. It’s been a challenge since a lot of the US gov. funding has been cut for aid/assistance with projects in Madagascar. That’s about it for now. My next post will probably be from Tana in a couple weeks.
Lately I’ve been biking or hiking out to the more rural areas to carry out health education activities. I really enjoy getting the exercise everyday and meeting new people. So far I’ve taught at four different primary schools and have been carrying out a training program for health educators at another primary school. I’ve also brought some materials to construct hand-washing stations at a few of the schools I have taught at. Sometimes it’s a little overwhelming, because there can be as many as 80-100 kids in a class, but it’s still really fun. The kids really enjoy the pictures I draw on my health posters, and the songs about healthy foods and hand-washing are a big hit. Malagasy love to sing, no matter how tone deaf some of them might be (some are really talented singers, though). I also often work with a doctor posted at a much smaller rural clinic 9km south of me. I go there at least once a week and help out with family planning or vaccines. I really enjoy talking to the people who visit the clinic about their daily struggles and about different options they have to improve the health of their families. It’s so beautiful out in the countryside of Madagascar, so even just traveling out to the different villages is an amazing experience in itself. I just need to remember to bring my camera more often! My garden is starting to come along too. Ive got tomato plants, onions, eggplant, cilantro, green beans, cucumbers, carrots and radishes already growing. The tomato plants already have little tomatoes on them. Hopefully we'll be able to use the veggies for cooking demos with the nutrition organiation.
I’ve also been doing some informal English lessons on the side. I’m more about the health education than English, but there are so many people here that want to learn and it is a nice way to make friends. I also end up picking up a little more Malagasy and French too, and I often get “voandalanas,” or, gifts for the road (cucumbers, bananas, coconuts, etc.).
June 26th was Madagascar’s Independence Day, which is a huge celebration here. The past weekend was really fun. A couple of friends had me over for meals, I participated in a bike race, watched a parade through town, watched a soccer match, heard a speech given by the village president and went to a dance party on Saturday night. Needless to say I was completely exhausted on Sunday, but it was a really fun experience. The Malagasy really know how to party!
Quite a few people have TVs here, and there’s electricity in town from 2pm-12am everyday, so I’ve even been able to catch some of the World Cup action. People here really enjoy watching Brazil (like everyone else). When I’m not able to make it over to a neighbor’s house to catch the games, I listen on my radio. The local Malagasy station in town runs commentaries on the matches every evening. It’s hard to understand a lot of it, since they speak so fast (like commentators in the U.S.) and it’s not in the same dialect, but once in a while I can figure out what’s going on, and it’s a good way for me to work on my language.
My Malagasy has been coming a long much better now that I’ve been back at site. I find that when I’m listening in on other’s conversations I can understand a lot more than I could before. I’m able to mix the dialects a little better now. Even though I was trained in the northern dialect, Sakalava, the people in this region speak a mix of several different dialects. In addition to Sakalava, there’s also Betsimasaraka, Tsimihety and Antandroy. Many people take words and expressions from multiple dialects, and when I travel from village to village (even if it’s only a few km away) there are clusters of groups, so I’ll find people speaking more Betsimasaraka than Sakalava or more Tsimihety than Betsimasaraka. I notice that some of the villages I go to, I really have a hard time understanding them because they tend to use more of one dialect than another. It’s a real challenge. Some days are really frustrating, because I feel like I’m back at day one, but then other days are encouraging because I feel that I’m really picking up on the language.
This weekend I’ll be meeting up with the other three volunteers in my region to celebrate 4th of July and watch a little World Cup. Then in mid-July I’m headed back to Tana (the capital) for a meeting and a training session since I’ll be helping train the next batch of health volunteers that come in August. I’m also going to help out with a bike tour against AIDS that some of the other health volunteers are organizing up at Lake Alaotra. I’m really excited to see everyone again and to help out with the bike tour. It should be a lot of fun. Hopefully somewhere in there I’ll be able to get the funding straightened out for the public latrine and well projects that I’m working on. It’s been a challenge since a lot of the US gov. funding has been cut for aid/assistance with projects in Madagascar. That’s about it for now. My next post will probably be from Tana in a couple weeks.
Tuesday, June 1, 2010
In-Service Training/Antananarivo
It's been so strange to be away from site for such a long time! A little over two weeks ago, I hopped on an Air Madagascar plane along with the midwife from my health clinic in Antsirabe Nord to head down to the capital, Antananarivo (a.k.a. Tana) for in-service training. After arriving in town, I stayed at the Peace Corps hostile and then headed up to the Peace Corps training site 2hrs outside of the city.
The training site is a beautiful place next to a lake up in the mountains in the center of the island, but it is quite chilly and rainy there. It was so wonderful to meet up with the other volunteers in my stage, since we hadn't seen each other in so long. The first week was filled with training sessions on how to apply for funding for projects, how to work with our counterparts and our community, how to do community analysis and needs assessment, some hands-on bio-intensive gardening as well as some HIV/AIDS prevention education strategies. We also did a bit more language training, which was very helpful since I'm still not proficient in my dialect of Malagasy. At the end of the first week, the counterparts that we brought from our sites went home and just the volunteers stayed on for a second week of training. We did a little more sector specific training (health for health volunteers, business for business volunteers, etc.) and some strategizing for what we plan to do when we return back to site. We also managed to find a little time to hang out and have fun too :)
I was very excited to hear that there is a new stage of health and education volunteers coming soon, and some of us might get to come back to help train them during the months of August and September. I'm hoping I get to be one of the trainers, because I really appreciated the help and advice I received from volunteers in the field when I was a Peace Corps trainee. Another advantage of being a trainer is that Peace Corps would fly me down to Tana, and then I could also take part in an upcoming Bike Tour against AIDS that some volunteers are planning in the Ambato region. Otherwise, it would be too far and too expensive for me to travel from my site to where the bike tour will be held in July.
The past few days I've been hanging out in the capital until my flight leaves to go back to site. It's expensive here in Tana, but it is quite an interesting city. Sometimes it seems very crowded and overwhelming, but I'm starting to enjoy it more, now that I've been able to see more of the city. The public bus system has been quite an adventure to explore. There are hundreds of different bus numbers that go all over town, and it only costs 300 ariary (15 cents) to get on one. I've gone all around the city on it. The markets are so fun to look at, because there is so much variety here: tomatoes, carrots, persimmons, tangerines, pineapples, papayas, avocados, apples, bok choy, cabbage, lettuce, sweet potatoes, peanuts, many different kinds of rice, tons of used clothing (fripery), electronics, toys, handicrafts. It's like sensory overload after four months of rural life! The big city doesn't come without it's downsides though. There are lots of pickpocketers, pollution, children begging on the streets, seas of dilapitated houses and buildings all connected to each other in a jumbled mess... Part of me is definitely anxious to get back to site to start working with rural communities again. That's about it for now. A manaraka indray!
The training site is a beautiful place next to a lake up in the mountains in the center of the island, but it is quite chilly and rainy there. It was so wonderful to meet up with the other volunteers in my stage, since we hadn't seen each other in so long. The first week was filled with training sessions on how to apply for funding for projects, how to work with our counterparts and our community, how to do community analysis and needs assessment, some hands-on bio-intensive gardening as well as some HIV/AIDS prevention education strategies. We also did a bit more language training, which was very helpful since I'm still not proficient in my dialect of Malagasy. At the end of the first week, the counterparts that we brought from our sites went home and just the volunteers stayed on for a second week of training. We did a little more sector specific training (health for health volunteers, business for business volunteers, etc.) and some strategizing for what we plan to do when we return back to site. We also managed to find a little time to hang out and have fun too :)
I was very excited to hear that there is a new stage of health and education volunteers coming soon, and some of us might get to come back to help train them during the months of August and September. I'm hoping I get to be one of the trainers, because I really appreciated the help and advice I received from volunteers in the field when I was a Peace Corps trainee. Another advantage of being a trainer is that Peace Corps would fly me down to Tana, and then I could also take part in an upcoming Bike Tour against AIDS that some volunteers are planning in the Ambato region. Otherwise, it would be too far and too expensive for me to travel from my site to where the bike tour will be held in July.
The past few days I've been hanging out in the capital until my flight leaves to go back to site. It's expensive here in Tana, but it is quite an interesting city. Sometimes it seems very crowded and overwhelming, but I'm starting to enjoy it more, now that I've been able to see more of the city. The public bus system has been quite an adventure to explore. There are hundreds of different bus numbers that go all over town, and it only costs 300 ariary (15 cents) to get on one. I've gone all around the city on it. The markets are so fun to look at, because there is so much variety here: tomatoes, carrots, persimmons, tangerines, pineapples, papayas, avocados, apples, bok choy, cabbage, lettuce, sweet potatoes, peanuts, many different kinds of rice, tons of used clothing (fripery), electronics, toys, handicrafts. It's like sensory overload after four months of rural life! The big city doesn't come without it's downsides though. There are lots of pickpocketers, pollution, children begging on the streets, seas of dilapitated houses and buildings all connected to each other in a jumbled mess... Part of me is definitely anxious to get back to site to start working with rural communities again. That's about it for now. A manaraka indray!
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